Effie greets you at the gate with a hug and a huge smile. Behind her, dozens of children squeal. The courtyard scene in half shade is a sight: all AIDS infected, children of all ages dance to South African pop music with juts and scalloped twists reminiscent of 80s break dancing.

Though officially a Christian operated AIDS orphange, Effie should be credited the shrills of happiness behind her. If you ever get to Eschowe, look up Effie, she’s a sweet force to be reckoned with, and a faithful surrogate mother for many.

Eschowe, Kwa-Zulu Natal, South Afrika.

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